The full technical rules can be checked here: ACU Regs 2007

Here I will take you over the basics of what are checked, this should give you an idea what the technical official is doing and what he is looking for.

As every technical official works differently the order what they check may differ, therefore this document should not be taken as a literal guide or wholly relied on when presenting a bike.

For this document I am assuming the bike is a 4 stroke, see regs for differences.

You will be asked to hold the bike from the rear of the bike, I will ask for your scruitenring card . From this I will check your race number and the class’s you are entering.

I will start on the nearside rear of the bike.

Here I am looking to ensure the rear bodywork is solid and that the rear subframe contains no sharp points. I will then check the rear tyre is suitable and fitted the correct way, the dust cap must be made of metal and all wheel weights covered with tape.

I will ensure there is no play in the bearings or swing arm bearings by forcing the wheel side to side. From here I will check that all the sprocket nuts are secure with none missing.

The swingarm must have a ‘shark fin’ fitted, this must be solid and strong enough to do its job. From here I move to the middle of the bike.

I will check the rear shock visually as well ensuring nothings loose. The foot pegs can be the flick up type (standard) but must have the ‘hero blobs’ removed. The footpeg end must be solid or have a bung fitted.

The gear change pedal must also be solid or have a bung fitted.

The fairing catch tray must be solid with no holes to allow liquid to leave. The catch tray must be able to hold water/oil (see ACU regs). If drain bungs have been fitted they must be taped in place both sides.

From here I will also look to see evidence of lock wiring of sump plug and oil filter. Any engine breathers / radiator overflow must vent into a collection bottle (see regs).

From here I move to the top of the bike, the petrol tank must be secure. The handle bars should move freely to both lock stops, the clipons should not be able to trap hands or fingers . The throttle should open freely, it should close quickly when let go. I will try this on both full locks to ensure the cable is not snagging.

The clipons and levers should remain solid when knocked.

I will then compress the forks several times, I am ensuring the brake lines are not snagging or any other cables. I am also looking for wear in the head race bearings and any unusual movement. This also allows me to check the front brakes and ensure there’s not to much play.

I then go to the front of the bike, I make sure there’s no play in the front callipers as well as visually inspect the pads for excessive wear. The brake lines are checked to ensure that each line goes directly to the master cylinder or if they do split this occurs above the bottom yolk.

The brake disks are checked for conditions as well as ensuring all bolts are present. The forks are checked for leakages.

The front tyre is checked for condition as well as ensuring the dust cap is metal and all weights are taped up. The rear brake is tested to ensure it stops the bike, the footpeg is checked. The rear calliper is checked for movement as well as the disk to ensure all the bolts are there.

During looking round the bike I will also ensure the fairing is solid. The Engine and Frame numbers are also checked to ensure they haven’t been altered or tampered with. Even if you have receipts the bike will fail.

Assuming the bike passes your card will be signed and a sticker placed on the bike.